There is one textile everyone knows- viscose. What is the scope of its existence today, particularly since it is used more or less in every piece of clothing or even soft furnishing? The longest time of change in viscose does not include turning it into a new trend of sustainable fashion. This article tells the story of this entailed flower, explaining how it is made and its impact on the environment. Thus, we focus on the history of viscose, past, present, and future, and examine the developments occurring today in relation to the concept of sustainability in textile production and the role of viscose therein.
The History and Evolution of Viscose
Country viscose, better known in certain fabrics as ‘artificial silk’, was developed in the 1800s, facilitating a transition from the more expensive natural silk. The task of its creation was initiated by the British inventors Charles Cross, Edward Bevan, and Clayton Beadle, who filed the patent for the viscose process in 1892. Commercial-scale production began in the early 1900s, marking a new phase in the history of textiles. Since then, with the improvement of the manufacturing process, viscose has become very versatile in the production of clothing and other textile materials. Although widespread, there has been growing attention to the environmental effects of producing this fabric, and a continual drive to improve or change the methods of its creation.
Key milestones in the development of viscose production
1891 – Discovery of Cellulose Xanthate
English chemists Charles Frederick Cross, Edward John Bevan, and Clayton Beadle patented the viscose process. They developed a form in which cellulose is dissolved in a sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide solution, producing cellulose xanthate nitrate, which is essentially known as “viscose”.
1905 – Commercial Production Begins
A British company called Courtaulds Ltd. started mass-producing viscose. She was the first (and for an extended period, the only) man-made fiber plant.
1920s – Widespread Adoption of Textiles
In the early 20th century, viscose increased its market penetration by providing affordable alternatives to the resistant textiles, such as expensive silk.
1960s – Introduction of High-Tenacity Rayon
With the improvement in manufacturing techniques, stronger and higher-quality rayon products were developed for a wider range of applications.
1990s – Environmental Concerns
Over time, the facial visages of various issues changed, as the production of viscose came to be associated with the production of toxic substances, particularly carbon disulfide, and the destruction of forests in the pursuit of cellulose.
2010s – Move Toward Sustainability
Developments such as closed-loop systems and the adoption of Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certified cellulose have helped reduce the environmental impact associated with viscose manufacture.
2020s – Continued Efforts for Eco-Friendly Alternatives
The industry remains highly attuned to conscious design, with interventions such as natural-based solvents and enhancements to recycling capabilities, aiming to reduce waste and contamination.
How viscose became a popular fabric in the fashion industry
In the world of fashion, viscose fabric has gained widespread popularity due to its rarity in the modern world, being a lightweight and relatively inexpensive fabric. Although, by tradition, it came in to take silk’s place, it was a far less expensive, yet shimmering and beautiful fabric—a silver lining for most fashion designers as well as the New York consumer of glamorous fashion. The possibility allowed entire textile companies to experiment. Although there was no interest in sustainable fiber options at the time, it enabled fashion houses to create most of their garments with bright colors without any issues. As recent respondent reports on search engines indicate, interest in sustainable surfaces has continued to grow over the years, and consumers are increasingly seeking environmentally friendly alternatives. Such developments have further strengthened the position of viscose in the market as more and more brands attempt to improve the clean production of this material and the benefits that it offers as a dress material for all occasions, ranging from sportswear to evening dresses.
How Viscose is Made: A Step-by-Step Guide
Complete Production Process
-
1
Harvesting Raw Materials
The first step is to harvest cellulose fibers from wood of trees such as eucalyptus, pine, beech, or spruce, as they provide a high yield of cellulose content and are sustainable resources that can be replenished.
-
2
Pulping
Turning the wood into pulp is achieved by applying several chemicals that isolate cellulose while removing other unwanted materials, such as lignin and hemicellulose.
-
3
Alkali Treatment
Then the cellulose pulp is treated with a solution of sodium hydroxide, which digests the cellulose, producing a soft, basically decomposed cellulose.
-
4
Aging
Softened alkaline cellulose is allowed to age for a set amount of time to develop the quality and activity of the material that is required for the later stages.
-
5
Xanthation
The aged cellulose is xanthated to produce cellulose xanthate, which is more soluble in liquid, with the help of carbon disulfide.
-
6
Dissolving in Solution
In the next step, the cellulose xanthate is introduced in a weak solution of sodium hydroxide. This product has a thick consistency and a yellow color, much like clear honey, and is called Viscose.
-
7
Filtering and Degassing
There is no doubt that filtration and dewaxing are applied.
-
8
Spinning into Fibers
Spinning occurs when the viscose is passed through small spinnerets into a moderate acidity. There, the polypropylene mixture is transformed into cellulose. All the fibers are collected.
-
9
Washing and Finishing
This is done to ensure the appropriate treatment of the fiber’s surface by removing chemical residues and because, in particular, there is a need to make the fibers more aesthetically pleasing.
-
10
Drying and Final Processing
Tilting the fibres for drying after the cleansing process to use them for either weaving or other kinds of cloth production.
The raw materials: Cellulose extraction from wood pulp
Obtaining cellulose from wood involves several steps to eliminate impurities, leaving only relatively pure cellulose, which is a primary reason it is extensively used in the textile and other related industries. Firstly, the logs are turned into small chips and soaked in chemicals such as sodium hydroxide and sodium sulfide, commonly known as the kraft process, to break down lignin and protohemicellulose while leaving the cellulosic fibers intact. This pulp is then subjected to extensive washing and bleaching to remove any residual substances, and is either ground into flakes or dried and stored. Business practices nowadays strongly focus on the sustainability of new technology, including the introduction and recycling of chemicals, as well as the preservation of ecology, thereby producing a safer process for the environment.
The chemical process: Xanthation and spinning
The steps of manufacturing viscose mainly involve xanthation, in which cellulose is mixed with carbon disulfide and sodium hydroxide to make cellulose xanthate. This colored substance rapidly dissolves, allowing it to transform into a thick solution referred to as ‘viscose’. In such instances, the solutions of viscose are processed through a filter to exclude particles and degassed to remove air bubbles, thereby achieving the desired quality during the straining process.
The latter step, which involves drawing, is where the solution of the viscose operator is nozzled thinly in all possible ways, with spinnerets directed to the caustic bath containing sulfuric and other salts. This includes pressing the coagulation of the strands and the regeneration of the cellulose fibers. The strands, therefore, are made of pure cellulose, can be of any size in terms of length and diameter, and can be modified by forming them in other shapes, for example, rayon. Due to advances in technology, the coating process has become more efficient and less time-consuming, utilizing chemical acids and bases and requiring less energy, which helps mitigate ecological problems in the textile industry.
The Environmental Impact of Viscose

Viscose production poses numerous environmental threats. It is not uncommon for viscose to be manufactured using substantial amounts of water, energy, and chemicals like carbon disulfide, which can be hazardous to both employees and the environment if not handled properly. Moreover, given the need for wood pulp for viscose, the deforestation of natural forests may contribute to biodiversity loss and exacerbate climate change. However, improved environmentally friendly technologies have hit the market, such as integrally sourced timber and certified, low-impact production that captures and reuses chemicals, thereby reducing emissions, among others. Such developments aim to mitigate the adverse effects of viscose production and, in turn, promote more environmentally friendly production methods.
The ecological footprint of viscose production
The ecological footprint of viscose production, particularly in relation to climate change mitigation, has more recently emerged as a concern. The process that leads to the production of viscose, according to contemporary estimates, is sometimes its energy clamouring and chemical in its processes as well as liable towards pollution if or when performed incorrectly; synthesis carried out by employing the chemical Carbon Disulfide, being its main characteristic, and which as such, is a highly poisonous chemical substance for which help must be sought. Existing problems may be overlooked in light of the down-to-earth technologies and practices that have been vigorously promoted, such as the introduction of relevant methodologies and the use of sustainable materials. To illustrate further, the new system will be in place to manage all chemicals used during production, including those derived from solvents, as well as energy reduction within the production system itself, which also generates energy from renewable sources. Such measures depict an increased pledge by the fashion sector to lessen the net contribution made by cellulose-based s or, more specifically, viscose.
Efforts to make viscose more sustainable
Studies based on the industrial sector reveal that making viscose front issues barely make sense in this contemporary decade. Numerous manufacturers are adopting a frugal closed-loop production method, which recovers and reuses up to 99% of solvents and water, among others, thereby eliminating waste and reducing pollution. Along with these, another movement toward sustainable craft is also being promoted through the dissemination of various initiatives, such as the FTC, which aims to ensure that the wood used for viscose production is harvested from sustainable forests, thanks to the FSC and the PEFC. In addition, there are attempts to introduce alternatives that are less detrimental, such as lyocell and biofibers, which further advance this campaign in the textile industry. These steps taken collectively represent a positive and proactive approach to the new trend in the world, which is the sustainable production of rayon/viscose and a pollution-free economy.
Viscose vs. Other Fabrics: A Comparative Analysis
Viscose is a versatile and cost-effective material, often compared to other fabrics such as cotton, polyester, and silk. Viscose, however, surpasses cotton as it is softer and drapes even better, making it perfect for classy clothing. While that may be true, the cotton fabric is much more comfortable to wear, especially in hot weather. In another aspect, the viscose material is more pleasant compared to polyester, as it does not appear as raw; however, polyester is more durable. In relation to silk, viscose also offers a luxury and texture very close to that of silk, but at much cheaper prices. Nevertheless, silk still excels in properties such as strength and elegance. There are cons to every cloth, but here the supremacy of the viscose fabric is because of its cost, convenience, and elegant design.
Viscose vs. cotton: Comfort and breathability
Here’s a concise comparison table of Viscose vs. Cotton, focusing on comfort and breathability:
Parameter | Viscose | Cotton |
---|---|---|
Softness | Silky and smooth texture | Soft, natural feel |
Breathability | Highly breathable, moisture-wicking | Excellent breathability, absorbs moisture |
Weight | Lightweight and drapable | Heavier, more structured |
Skin Sensitivity | Hypoallergenic, ideal for sensitive skin | Gentle, suitable for most skin types |
Temperature Regulation | Cool and comfortable in warm weather | Keeps cool but retains some heat |
Durability | Less durable, prone to wear | Highly durable, withstands frequent use |
Care Requirements | Requires delicate washing | Easy to wash and maintain |
Eco-Friendliness | Semi-sustainable, depends on production | Natural, biodegradable, widely sustainable |
Cost | Generally more affordable | Varies, often more expensive |
Aesthetic Appeal | Shiny, luxurious appearance | Matte, classic look |
Viscose vs. polyester: Durability and cost
Here’s a concise comparison table of Viscose vs. Polyester, focusing on durability and cost:
Parameter | Viscose | Polyester |
---|---|---|
Durability | Less durable, prone to wear | Highly durable, resists wear and tear |
Tear Resistance | Weak, tears easily under stress | Strong, resists tearing |
Moisture Resistance | Absorbs moisture, weakens when wet | Water-resistant, retains strength when wet |
Wrinkle Resistance | Wrinkles easily, needs ironing | Wrinkle-resistant, low-maintenance |
Lifespan | Shorter lifespan with frequent use | Long-lasting, withstands heavy use |
Cost | Generally affordable | Affordable, often cheaper than viscose |
Production Cost | Higher due to natural raw materials | Lower, made from synthetic materials |
Care Requirements | Requires delicate washing | Easy to wash, machine-friendly |
Eco-Friendliness | Semi-sustainable, depends on production | Non-biodegradable, less eco-friendly |
Aesthetic Appeal | Soft, luxurious look | Shiny, synthetic appearance |
Applications of Viscose in Fashion and Beyond
Designers and customers highly prefer fashion garments made of viscose fabric because they are versatile, comfortable, and affordable. As it is very soft-textured and drapes well, it is popularly found in figure suits, including dresses, blouses, skirts, and even lightweight suits. It is also highly breathable, thus making it possible to make sportswear and summer clothes. Fashion is not the only area where we can find viscose; home textiles, including bed linens, curtains, and even upholstery, also utilize this material. There is this beautiful, soft material. This characteristic of resembling silk or cotton without the associated high prices of silk or cotton makes it very useful for a range of purposes.
Viscose in fashion: Dresses, blouses, and activewear
I really do like wearing clothes made from this particular fabric – viscose. This is because it is both attractive and comfortable. The idea of dresses and blouses with a seamless, flowing texture that feels soft to the touch and allows for unrestricted movement, even in warm weather, is very appealing, and it owes it all to viscose.
Home textiles: Curtains, upholstery, and bedding
Such as viscose, it is considered a versatile fabric and is used in a wide range of home textile products. Curtains made of viscose material, which fall perfectly, add elegance to the room. At the same time, their soft texture complements the textiles used in the bedrooms, making them comfortable to use throughout the night. For furniture upholstery, viscose compositions offer a polished look and even protect against damage, making them functionally luxurious. It can also create the appearance of silks and cottons, which works in its favor, but even more so, it has an economic aspect, just like a simple modern house that can be bought for.
Reference Sources
Here are three authoritative and professional references that explore the topic of viscose, and they can be of great value in challenging and correcting your research paper.
The historical development of and the outlook for viscose fibres
Source: Taylor & Francis Online
Focus: Historical development and applications of viscose fibers.
Various printing techniques of viscose/polyester fabric to enhance its performance properties
Source: Egyptian Knowledge Bank Journals
Focus: Techniques to improve viscose/polyester fabric performance.
Methods to increase the reactivity of dissolving pulp in the viscose rayon production process: a review
Source: SpringerLink
Focus: Enhancing the reactivity of dissolving pulp in viscose production.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
What is viscose made from?
Viscose is made from regenerated cellulose, primarily derived from wood pulp. This process transforms cellulose into a semi-synthetic material that mimics natural fibers, such as cotton and silk, offering a soft feel and versatility in textiles.
What are the characteristics of viscose?
Viscose exhibits several key characteristics, including high absorbency, a smooth feel, and a drape similar to that of natural fibers. It is also known for its versatility in apparel, making it a popular choice for clothing and home textiles.
Is viscose biodegradable?
Yes, viscose is biodegradable since it is derived from natural cellulose. This means that, under the right conditions, it can decompose and return to the environment, making it a more sustainable option compared to purely synthetic fibers.
How does bamboo viscose differ from conventional viscose?
Bamboo viscose is a type of rayon made from bamboo pulp, while conventional viscose is made from other wood sources. Bamboo viscose is often marketed as a more sustainable option due to bamboo’s rapid growth and low resource requirements.
Can viscose clothing be washed by hand?
Yes, viscose clothing can be hand-washed. It is recommended to use cold water and a gentle detergent to preserve its soft feel and prevent it from losing its shape during the washing process.
What are the environmental concerns related to viscose production?
The production process of viscose can lead to significant air emissions around viscose manufacturing sites. These emissions may include harmful chemicals such as sulphuric acid, prompting the need for more sustainable viscose options that minimize environmental impact.
Is viscose an alternative to silk?
Viscose is often referred to as artificial silk due to its luxurious texture and similar drape. It offers a more affordable alternative to silk while maintaining a soft texture, making it a popular choice in fashion and home textiles.
What are the benefits of using modal rayon?
Modal rayon is a type of viscose known for its exceptional softness and durability. It is often blended with other fibers, such as spandex, to offer stretchy qualities and enhanced comfort in apparel, making it an excellent choice for activewear and casual clothing.
How do viscose and polyester compare?
Viscose and polyester differ in their composition and properties. Viscose is a semi-synthetic fiber made from cellulose, while polyester is a synthetic fiber derived from petroleum. Viscose has a more natural feel and is more absorbent, whereas polyester is more durable and resistant to wrinkles.